The older I get, the less I seem to know.
For example:
Naked or dunked?
Roux or file?
Chargrilled or cold smoked?
Abita or Dixie?
Fried or raw?
Crab or shrimp?
Whiskey or gin?
Pudding or custard?
Cake or pie?
Chickory or no chickery?
Ya-ka-mein or pho?
Tobasco or Crystal?
Po-boy or poorboy?
Po-boy or banh mi?
Creole or Cajun?
The Holy Trinity: Father, Son, & Holy Ghost or onion, celery and green pepper?
Dressed or undressed?
Dressing or stuffing?
Sauce or gravy?
Sno-ball or snowball?
Mirliton: fruit or vegetable?
As you have no doubt have figured out by now, I have New Orleans on my mind.
Or, more specifically, eating in New Orleans.
As I frequently do when I’m heading to a place away from home for a few days or longer, I look at reading material that will inform me about where I’m going.
Some people who prepare this way read about the history of the place. Others consult travel guides of the ‘not-to-miss’ sights or places off the beaten path, while others focus on the museums, architecture, etc.
For me, it’s first about the markets and food, then the people and life there today, and only after that do I delve into the past.
Thus, a long preamble to an upcoming trip to New Orleans, a place I’ve been to numerous times over the past 40 years, including just two weeks ago to celebrate my good brother-in-law’s 80th birthday.
So why this great insight into not knowing as much as I thought I knew?
My friend, and part-time New Orleanian Hugh R., has offered five or six titles of books that the three of us who are going to spend four or five days with him in April might consider reading before we arrive.
I quickly chose and ‘consumed’, so to speak, Gumbo Tales: Finding My Place at the New Orleans Table, by Sara Roahen. (She had wanted to title the book “Queer for Oyster Po-Bo”, but you can guess what her editor said about that idea.)
As I indicated, I’m not new to this area nor it’s wonderful food. We’ve been going to Mosca’s for at least 40 years, have enjoyed Galatoire’s, Antoine’s, Arnaud’s, Broussard’s, Brennan’s, Acme’s, Felix’s, Café du Monde, Morning Call, and those no longer lakeside restaurants, etc. And when we do go to NOLA as we did two weeks ago for a period of 48 hours, we ‘managed’ to go to Casamento’s, Mosca’s, Clancy’s, The Column’s and had beignets and non chickory coffee just off the Avenue.
Plus, we’ve been cooking from our half dozen NO cookbooks for so long that the pages are warped, stained, and chewed.
But while reading Roahen’s book this week, I realized how much I don’t know.
In addition to the questions above, I hold my sister and brother-in-law (and their so called friends) personally responsible for my not knowing about:
Sazeracs, cream of nectar sno-balls, Hector’s, Central Grocery’s muffelettas, stuffed artichokes at Liuzza’s, braciolini (or is it bracialoni or brocilone, or braciole, etc.?).
Also, they never told us about St. Joseph’s Day, whether stuffed eggplant is a main course or a side dish, nothing about green gumbo, heirloom eggplant, and certainly they never even mentioned fried potato po-boys. Or why to make a turdunken at the last minute you have to start three days in advance?
Then there’s the Herbert brothers’ boneless chicken with spicy pork stuffing that’s a mere two and a half hour drive from New Orleans. How about Hawk’s, Perino’s Boiling Pot, Jackques-Imo’s alligator sausage cheese cake and Jim Core’s kale and sausage jambalaya?
What, dear sister, exactly is Le Boeuf Gras, fried cardoons, soaked salad, and why haven’t you taken us to Crescent City Steak House or secured us an invitation to Pableaux‘s for his Monday’s red beans and rice?
I could go on, but you get the drift. My sister and brother-in-law and their kids too, who have spent years in N’Orleans, have been quite remiss in their treatment of us.
For those of you who have been equally deprived, I suggest you get Sara Roahen’s Gumbo Tales/Queer for Oyster Po-Boys and get reading.
You’ll learn about all of the above questions, places, etc. Plus, you’ll learn why some folks would give up five years of their life for oysters, you’ll understand what is meant by a third-place restaurant, find out there was once a Chinatown in New Orleans, why crawfish bisque should be eaten as a main course with rice rather than as an appetizer, why crawfish aren’t good unless they are boiled, Liuzza’s sandwich that can change your life, and many more things that you should know by this time in your life.
janet brown, sister said:
Now you did not come enough times or for a lengthy period to cover all the above!
Also, remember our dear parents Esty and Sam were (maybe just Esty) not as adventurous as we all are.
We got around to our share one weekend with Uncle Arnold to almost all the above places mentioned, and by Monday morning we only wanted a poached egg.
Do you now see why the only question people ask about Katrina is a very annoying “Did you lose your house?”
Then, they proceed with another completely different conversation.
The loss was financial, emotional, but mostly gastronomical!
Lynda Mahana said:
I actually think you were pretty hard on sissy Janet for not fully informing you on all that New Orleans has or had to offer, gastronomically specifically. The real deal is, you had to have grown up there….
I chuckled at your reference to Liuzza’s restaurant by the racetrack. Gosh, I have known the owner Billy Gruber, since junior high. BTW, the stuffed artichoke at Dorignac’s Food Store is pretty fabulous!
You spoke of cream of nectar snoballs. If you didn’t have a dozen nectar sodas growing up at your local K&B drugstore, you were out of the loop. When you turned eighteen or even before, the Cream-sickle cocktail made with cream of nectar at the now defunct lakeside restaurant Brunnings, was a rite of passage.
And then there is New Orleans own Dennery’s chocolate sauce, which topped the famous mile high pie served at the Pontchartrain Hotel on St. Charles Avenue.
Did you know that you can purchase that fabulous French bread from the wholesale bakery that supplies the likes of Galaitoire’s and Antoine’s? Just drive your car around to the side of the building and find the pick-up window for retail sales.
If interested in a great recipe for a Sazarac, which is absolutely my favorite cocktail, go to my personal blog and you will find.(www.LuvGourmet.com)
I could go on and on…..the food, the people, the culture is, as they say,”Where it’s at!”
janet brownsister said:
That last comment is a foodie more than Richard, so beoieve everything she say!
Richard said:
Re: Where it’s at!, Linda’s defense of NOgumbo, and NOgumbo’s excuses, etc.
I suspect Linda is correct that one has to grow up in New Orleans to benefit fully, gastronomically, that is. And NOgumbo is probably correct that we didn’t come often enough to take full advantage of what was, and still is, available.
Still, not even to have been told about Sazaracs, snoballs, fried potato po-boys, Hector’s cream of nector snoballs, Central Grocery’s muffelletas, St. Joseph’s Day, the Herbert Brothers, and some of the other things mentioned above must be considered a terrible error.
Had I only known, then I could’ve decided for myself whether to visit more often.
Fortunately, there may still be some time left.
Janet said:
We all forgot Randazzos cream cheese king cakes
Well the good news is that your daughters
Experienced. A larger piece of New Orleans!
Oh did I say “good news”?